At a gathering of ROFs (Retired Old Farts) in October of 1999, a small sub-group of us began discussing the possibility of a tour of China. Prices were down because of the Asian recession, and the the strength of the dollar. Several tours looked interesting. One of the fellows (Don, right center) said his dentist had taken a terrific tour the year before and was still raving about it.
One thing lead to another, and May, 12 2000 found the group in the first photo sitting at LAX, waiting for their plane to leave for Beijing, China.
After a seemingly interminable flight (actually about 13 hours) we passed through customs and immigration in Shanghai on 14 May and flew on to Beijing.
I don't think I could summarize the trip any better than the tour company. There were a couple of last minute changes, though.
1) The airline changed the routing, and we entered China at Shanghai, rather than Beijing. The tour company, Orient Odyssey, was so concerned about the change, that their representative, Thomas Cheng flew with us to Beijing to make sure things went smoothly.
2) The Chinese government requisitioned our Yangtze river boat for the use of some dignitaries, and we ended up on the MS Yangtze Prince, instead. It was a fine boat, no problem.
3) Rain caused us to change the sequence of events in Beijing, but we got to see everything of import.
I have edited the itinerary slightly -- meal details, etc. We ate well, and were on our own only for two lunches and two dinners throughout the entire trip.
Let me expound on the food a bit. Some who have made these tours disliked the food --even claiming they lost weight on the tour. We had all heard these stories and went equipped with a few granola bars, beef jerky, etc. That's not a bad idea, but in our case the food was, in general, excellent. The snacks we carried were used for a couple of those meals where we were on our own. We just weren't that hungry.
Occasionally, some of the food would be unappealing. One evening we had a dish called "North American Bullfrog" The way the stuff was chopped up, it was unrecognizable, but the bones were small enough to have been bullfrog. For some reason, most of this delicacy was left on the serving platter at our "round-eye" table. The next table over was a group from Hong Kong, and they sucked it right up.
We did have a problem getting some of the food identified. This was a problem for those with food allergies, or vegetarian leanings. However, there were always a dozen or so different dishes to chose from (family style service) and everyone found a few things they liked.
The food struck us as quite oily when we started out in the north. It got more spicy and less oily as we ate our way south through Szechwan style cooking and then, more familiar as we got into the Cantonese area.
I'll also throw in some {notes} from time to time. Being lazy, I have gone back and lifted comments from several e-mails I and others wrote regarding the tour, and included them in the narratives.
Board China Eastern Airlines flight MU584 at 13:00. Enjoy the award winning in-flight meals and services.
Arriving China's capital at 1710, you will be met and escorted to the grand 4 star deluxe Beijing International Hotel.
{We picked up our national guide when we landed in Shanghai, and a local guide for each area we toured. Our national guide, Francis Wang, was terrific. He spoke excellent English, and helped us enjoy the entire trip. Our first local guide, Charlie Cui was also very good. I wrote about Charlie:
Our first local guide, Charlie, in Beijing, told an interesting story of his life during the cultural revolution. When he was ten, he joined the Red Guard. The Red Guard was charged with ferreting out and burning down, or otherwise purifying things like historical buildings. Charlie was too small for building burning, instead, the Junior Red Guard was charged with destroying books, and informing on people who behaved "incorrectly". Charlie ran across a book that caught his eye, 1001 Arabian Nights. It was in English, but the pictures were great. Instead of burning it, he put a red cover on it and began studying English in secret. When the cultural revolution came to an end, he ended up assigned to a factory job, but was able to get into tourism because there was a severe shortage of people who had any knowledge of English when China decided to open up to the outside world.
I don't know whether Charlie really had this experience, or just read Fahrenheit 451. But it is a charming story. That whole piece of Chinese history is so incredible, I want to believe Charlie.
Anyway, as a result of the cultural revolution, there evidently aren't many really old airports, major highways or buildings over a few stories high. We flew in and out of China on MD-11 aircraft and domestically on very comfortable, new Airbus 320s. Our only taste of the older China was an overnight sleeper train trip.
I think most of the group was surprised by the openness of the guides, in talking about their country. I wrote:
It was quite a tour -- 22 days all over the Eastern half of China. After exhausting, I guess our next reaction was -- amazing. China was nothing like the closed, backward society I had expected to find. The China I expected, died some twenty years ago, put to death by a mostly peaceful revolt of the people.
Not that China is not still a backward country, ruled by a powerful, centralized, communist government. It is. But the society is more open than I had been led to believe. Economically, it is strong, and growing fast. Most people still live in a really primitive, rural environment, but there are also huge cities with impressive high-rise buildings, extensive public works and a populace that seems friendly to strangers and unafraid to talk to you, and hopefully (for them) sell you something.
I was asked for my "papers" when I entered the country and again when I left. We were accompanied by a national guide (a government employee) throughout the trip, and we picked up a local guide at most locations. Whenever we traveled domestically, our national guide whipped out a group visa and waved it at the ticket and gate people. I suspect that the hotels would also insist on a seeing a passport, had we not been escorted by a government guide. Other than that, we were never challenged. We had no qualms about going out on the city streets on our own to look around and shop.
We all became adept at haggling over the price of anything. There was an irritating airport tax (about $6.50) every time we flew anywhere, and by the end of the trip, I was trying to talk our guide into bargaining with the government reps over that. He politely reminded me that the government was still a rigid communist government...
It seems that everything in China is either several hundred to several thousand years old, or less than 20 years old. The original revolutionary government evidently didn't think much of western frills and infrastructure like roads, airports and buildings, and a lot of what there was, was found to be incorrect by the subsequent cultural revolution, and was destroyed, along with much of the historical treasure of Ancient China. The city people were relocated to the countryside, and everyone was directed to grow food and pull China up by the bootstraps. This miserable era came to an end with the death of Mao, and the identification and purge of the "gang of four" as the misdirected architects of a really bad idea.
Our guides talked openly about recent Chinese history, the present organization of the government and their personal views of most things. But, when things got too intense they would retreat with the statement that that question is "too political". As open as things seemed, there are still rules.
Walk on Tian An Men Square - the largest public plaza in the world. Visit the Forbidden City - the imperial palace museum housing numerous priceless treasures. Tour the beautiful Summer Palace, enjoy a walk along the Long Corridor and take a boat ride on the scenic Kunming Lake. After dinner enjoy an interesting Peking Opera show.
The thrilling excursion takes you to the timeworn steps of the Great Wall. It is said to be the only man-made structure visible from moon by naked eyes. Also walk on the renowned Sacred Way to Ming Tomb — the underground palace. En route enjoy interesting visit at Cloisonne Factory.
Due to popular request, today is designed as a free day for you to explore the city, shopping or rest.
{Don't pass up a trip to the "Silk Alley Market". You can find almost anything, or at least two or three rip-offs, there!}
After breakfast, tour the splendid Temple of Heaven. Your train K35 will leave at 1350, the smooth ride will take you cross the Northern China Plain. Arriving at 1839, you will be met and transferred to the 4 star lavish Qilu Hotel. A delicious Welcome Banquet is hosted by Orient Odyssey & China International Travel Service (CITS) Group.
A scenic coach ride led you to Taian - a small town at foot of Mt. Tai: the most sacred mountain in Chinese history. More than 72 kings / emperors visited here to pay homage. Coach to midway and a spectacular cable car ride takes you to the summit. Explore the "street in heaven" and the dramatic birds eye view.
{This mountain is like Mecca to the Chinese, they will walk for several months to reach the mountain top. It is so close to heaven that their prayers are more likely to be heard.}
After dinner, scenic bus ride to Qufu. Overnight at the unique 4 star Queli Hotel.
Day 8 Qufu - Suzhou
Hardly changed for 2,000 years, Qufu is Confucius' hometown. Tour the splendid Confucius' Mansion and magnificent Confucius Temple.
{While there we saw a parade in honor of a wedding.}
Also visit a local village & a family and explore local peasants' life. After dinner, you will depart via train #551 at 1840. (Overnight train deluxe soft sleeper class 4 beds in one compartment).
Day 9 Suzhou
Arriving at 0504. You will be met and transferred to the grand luxury 4 star Aster Hotel to fresh up. Today's program calls for a cruise along the ancient Grand Canal and tour of the intriguing Fisherman's Net Garden - changing scenes at each turn, it is one of the most famous antique gardens in China.
{This city's claim to fame is the reconstructed gardens. They had gone to ruins during Mao's reign. Walkways are made from mosaic-like pebble designs which change as you go from one section to another. Many interesting rock formations and koi ponds are featured. Plants are a more minor feature.}
You will also visit the Silk Factory & Embroidery Institute — claimed to be one of the best in the world.
{Reversible embroidery is most unique. The design is perfect on both sides of the work, Usually the design is the same, but special pieces featured Prince Charles on one side and Princess Diana on the Reverse side. Nancy spent sleepless nights trying to figure out how this was done, but never did. It's their trade secret.}
A smooth one hour coach ride takes you cross the lush green rice field to Shanghai, China's largest cosmopolitan and commercial / industrial center. In a dazzling older part of the city you will stroll in the classical Yu Garden. Then to the Children's Palace where enthusiastic youngsters will entertain you with singing and dancing. Walk on the fabled "Bund” the waterfront surrounded by old European style buildings that gave Shanghai the name "New York & Paris of the Orient" in 1920s. Enjoy an astonishing acrobatic show after dinner! Overnight at 4 star deluxe Ocean Hotel.
Visit the grand Shanghai Museum - the newest and most expensive one in China with extensive collection of remarkable dynastic cultural artifacts. Also to the Nanking Road teeming with some of China's most popular emporiums. The afternoon is free for you to explore, shop & experience this true magical city!
Guide will take you to the airport and depart via flight MU5323 at 1355, arriving at 1520. Located in center of China, Wuhan is an important transportation hub via both waterway & railway. After dinner, board first class deluxe cruiser M. S. President Series / Yellow Crane - one of the largest and most modern cruisers on Yangtze! All meals & shore excursions while on board are included.
{Here the group split. About half of the group was on a 12 day tour, and it was time for them to go home. We parted at airport. Of this time I wrote:
We started out with a group of about 2 dozen people. Half of them left us after 12 days, having signed up for a shorter tour. The pace was such that we "22 dayers" were slightly envious of the folks who got to leave early. Fortunately, we spent four nights of the last nine on a river boat, cruising up the Yangtze River, and except for Nancy, we all got rested up. Nancy came down with a bad case of "Mao's revenge" that Lomatil wouldn't even touch. We had to resort to a Doctor's care on the river boat (total cost, about $15 for a doctor's visit, an IV, and several courses of tablets and pills).
We had become well acquainted with the short tour group and were sorry to see them go.
The river boat was well run, and quite comfortable. Our stateroom was bigger than any we have ever had on an ocean going cruise ship. On the other hand, the environment on the ship did seem rather rigid. I wrote:
An incident on the river boat did give me a little more insight into the residual mindset of the authorities. Like everything in China, the boat is owned by the government. I imagine the ship’s officers are all government employees, in some paramilitary organization. There were published rules, and punishments for everything. I broke a water glass, and thought nothing of it. The room stewardess showed up the next morning, knocking on our door and wanting to know about the glass. After much failed hand waving and pidgin English, Nancy dug the glass out of the wastebasket and showed it to the stewardess. She disappeared, and returned with a piece of paper. It was a typewritten confession that I had to sign, admitting to breaking rule so-and-so, and agreeing to pay a fine of 15 Yuan—almost $2. I told the stewardess to put it on my room bill, but she insisted on collecting then and there. I got the impression that if I didn’t pay I would have to walk the plank on the spot. Shades of the Manchurian Candidate! }
Arriving city of Shashi in the evening. Enjoy shore excursion to visit Jingzhou Museum. Over 2000 years old and as the best-preserved historic town in southern China, the city holds important position in ancient War Kingdom period.
You will arrive the ship lock of the impressive Gezhouba Dam in early morning. The cruiser will be raised to meet the higher water level of upper Yangtze. Shore excursion is arranged at Shandouping - the site of the on- going but controversial project of the massive THREE GORGE DAM. As the largest irrigation project in mankind's history, it will bring the water level 170 meters higher upon completion. Many cities, villages, including hundreds of towns this cruise passes by will be flooded. Millions will have to be moved to higher ground. The project takes about 10 years to complete. By then, Three Gorge area will no longer be the same and mountains will become islands. In the afternoon your cruiser will marvel through the majestic Xiling Gorge and dock at Badong at around 3 p.m.. It is time for the highlights of your cruise — a small boat excursion to explore smaller gorges of the picturesque Shendong Stream - the 60 kilometer stream was a newly exposed scenic wonder. Local minority laborers will pull your wooden boat upstream (like they have been doing for hundreds of years). Misty and emerald, the crystal clear water flows fast through deep gorges and precipices surrounded by peaks covered with green vegetation. Explore the hanging coffin on the high cliff.
Continue to sail through breathtaking sights of the narrow cliff walls and dramatic vistas. See the famous Goddess Peak at Wu Gorge, known for its deep valley and quiet beauty, celebrated for its towering twelve peaks that almost blot out the sun. Entering Qutang Gorge cloistered by precipitous moss-clad cliffs - the shortest but reputably the most spectacular section of the Three Gorges. It is famous for dangerously high cliff and surprisingly narrow river bed. Note the ancient foot path built alongside the cliffs.
Shore excursion at Shibaozhai — a unique ancient wooden tower built on the cliff wall facing Yangtze. From the river, you see a rectangular rock with sheer cliffs, standing grandly, with a wooden pagoda, 11 stories high, built against the rock side. You can walk stairs to the top, or, simply stroll the local village underneath — frozen in time, the custom is unique, nothing changed for decades - it might be the most "original" Chinese village you are looking for.
{ We did not see this feature. Weather and water conditions cause plans to change.}
M. S. Yellow Crane will arrive at 0900. Welcome to the "City of Fog and Mountain". At Stillwell Museum, trace foot prints of General Stillwell and Sino-American friendship from WWII. On Erling Hill, enjoy a birds eye view of the city planned to be the largest in China with 30 million population.
Depart via flight WH2404 at 1735, arriving Xian at 1845. Met and transferred to 4 star lavish Jianguo Hotel.
{Getting off the river boat was no fun. Here's my description of it:
1). The very worst experience of the trip was debarking the Yangtze riverboat in Chongqing. We debarked in the rain, and the footing was very slippery. I found the pontoon bridge very treacherous to navigate. The last twenty feet were impossible to negotiate for a person with the inner ear and balance problems I have. I had to have help from two porters, who practically had to carry me across that span.
2). The steps from the pontoon bridge were extremely difficult for my wife to negotiate. She needed assistance from two porters to climb them.
I wrote this in some comments to the travel agent, and I understand they are trying to do something about the situation. If "walking the plank" and climbing narrow, slippery steps concern you, check with your tour company. The steps were equal to a six-story climb. After a quarter-mile walk on the "planks" carrying hand luggage, it was quite a challenge! }
In 1974, a peasant digging a well explored the 8th* wonder of the world - the Terra Cotta Warriors. Now you will walk in the actual pit to see the original life sized Terra Cotta Army and the Bronze Chariot. The spectacular Circle Vision Movie is included. Tour the impressive Wild Goose Pagoda and ancient City Wall. Dinner is followed by splendid Tang Dynasty singing and dancing performance.
Visit the Shanxi Provincial Historical Museum — one of the best museums in China with extensive collections of historical artifacts. After lunch, flight WH205 departs at 1400, arriving at 1545. As the plane glides down, you can see needle shaped limestone mountains standing in lush green rice fields. Met and transferred to the beautiful Osmanthus Hotel centrally located on the side of the Peach Blossom River.
The mirror like water reflects lush tropical limestone hills while you cruise the Li River — one of China's most beautiful scenic sites with breathtaking landscapes. Arriving Yangshuo in the afternoon & explore the huge village market! See Elephant Trunk Hill en route back to city via coach.
Tour majestic Reed Flute Cave. You will depart via flight MU5344 at 1250, arriving at 1445. Overnight at deluxe Ocean Hotel. Free afternoon to rest or explore.
Free morning for last minute packing, rest or shopping. Enjoy a farewell lunch! Say good bye to China and exit via MU583 at 1450, arriving Los Angeles at 1100 the same day.
{There are many tour companies offering tours of China more or less similar to this one. Having talked to other travelers, Nancy and I feel fortunate to have been put onto this particular tour by the Van Winkles. In spite of our complaints, we recommend it, with the caveat that, after all, it is China. Don't expect it to be a Princess Cruise.
You can get info on future cruises from Thomas Cheng, Orient Odyssey International Travel Service, 1385 Gulf Road, Point Roberts, WA, 1-800-637-5778, orientodyssey@sprint.ca.
Happy Travels,
John and Nancy Pearson}